Today was our shortest day of biking—only 27 miles—but also the least interesting by far. The weather was absolutely perfect, even with a slight tailwind, I think. I say “I think,” because you often don’t notice tailwinds, unless they are super-strong; they simplyt reduce the wind resistance. I wasn’t conscious of wind at all—the first day where that’s been the case.
Riding with the drone of cars and trucks on the New York Thruway
Our ride was entirely along, or within hearing distance, of the New York Thruway (I-90). For long stretches, we were right next to it, though typically separated by an overgrown fence line, blocking a direct view.
The trail was paved the entire way, but it probably hasn’t been repaved in a while, and there are bumps that form across the trail where roots are probably pressing up on the underside of the asphalt. In the western part of the state, the trail was mostly stone dust, which doesn’t have the same bumps, though when it’s either really dry or rainy, your bike gets really dirty. A couple places where we stayed, there was a host to wash off our bikes and panniers.
Last night, we had a great stay at the Haslett House in Fort Plain, a massive Victorian house with multiple turrets, porches, and a crazy roofline that architects love but builders hate. I told Paul, our host and owner of the place, about the book, “the Buccolic Plague,” and I think he was going to order a copy up right away. Like Paul’s situation, the author of the book and his partner lived in New York City and bought a large house in Upstate New York’s apply country on a whim, and struggled to make a go of it farming and running a B&B. It’s a hilarious book that I know Paul will relate to!
The route today had few options for lunch or coffee along the way. The place we found for lunch, the Dixie Café, had good sandwiches, but the place was in need to sprucing up, and what we saw of the town of Fultonville was really depressing. Maybe we just saw the underbelly of the town, and it’s really nice….
Lunch in Fultonville. Hmmm….
We didn’t linger in Fultonville, biking the last eleven miles to the Amsterdam Castle, which is a huge place and a real trip! It’s a castle, replete with suits of armor lining the main hall. Our room is huge, with a bedroom and a separate sitting room. We tried to switch to a room with a tub, so Jerelyn could soak, but that wasn’t possible. Oh well.
This place, the Amsterdam Castle, is pretty incredible. It was built as an armory in the late-1800s, and only fairly recently (the past 25 years) did it become lodging. It definitely has the castle vibe, from paintings on the walls to suits of armor standing guard over a long table set with gold plates. In addition to 22 rooms of lodging, the castle is a venue for catered events; I suspect that’s a big part of the business model.
The Amsterdam Castle. Upscale for our last night!
While I was doing some writing late-afternoon, Jerelyn walked down to an awesome riverfront park on the Mohawk River, and a dramatic pedestrian bridge leading over to it. There is still lots of work going on, but the town of 18,000 is clearly focused on tourism and revitalization.
The new pedestrian bridge over the Mohawk River
Entrance to the pedestrian bridge
Speaking of revitalization, Amsterdam could be called the city that urban renewal destroyed. In the 1950s and ’60s, major arteries were built, ostensibly to bring development to the city, which was in decline after carpet manufacturers moved to Georgia. But those arteries, including I-90 bisected the city and cutting off most of the city from the river. It is still trying to recover. And they’re clearly making progress!
Looking across train tracks and I-90, several of the arteries that divide the historic downtown from the river.
Tomorrow, will be (according to my research) our second-longest day, at 49 miles—likely longer, depending on where we veer off the trail for lunch or coffee breaks. That will bring us into the Albany Rensselaer Train Station, where we parked our car. Then a two-hour drive home….